Die Reichsstadt

High ceilings and period stonework set the room, though the kitchen reads thoroughly modern. This hotel restaurant in a handsome old Gengenbach property serves Baden-inflected French cooking, offered à la carte or as a multi-course set menu, with a vegetarian path through if you need one. The staff run the room without fuss. In summer, the garden fills up fast, and for once the reputation is not overblown.