Die Reichsstadt

High ceilings and period stonework set the room, though the kitchen reads thoroughly modern. This hotel restaurant in a handsome old Gengenbach property serves Baden-inflected French cooking, offered à la carte or as a multi-course set menu, with a vegetarian path through if you need one. The staff run the room without fuss. In summer, the garden fills up fast, and for once the reputation is not overblown.

One honor, in evidence: