Éclosion

The ceramics on every table were thrown by the chef's mother, and the vegetables came from his father's garden, so this creative restaurant in a restored château outside Lyon is nothing if not a family affair. The kitchen works with organic produce and turns it into menus that veer inventive and precise. An eclectic list leans toward natural and biodynamic wines, and there are guestrooms upstairs if leaving feels like too much effort.

One honor, in evidence: