Eyckerhof by Nicolas Mylle

A converted period farmstead in Bornem, its stone walls and natural-toned interior doing the heavy lifting before anyone's poured a drop. The cooking is rooted in classical French technique with the occasional creative detour, the sort of place where a turbot lands with house-made XO sauce and a risotto that renders further courses morally questionable. At lunch a set lineup; evenings you choose your own course count.

One honor, in evidence: