Farmer & Sons

White tiles and Polish comfort food on the suburban fringe of Poznań, where a Bib Gourmand bistro is quietly doing something smart with the classics. The kitchen lightens traditional recipes without draining the flavor from them, so dishes like dumplings topped with braised beef cheek and a bone-marrow demi-glace land with real weight. A handful of steaks sold by weight cover the celebration end of things, and the service is notably warm for a room this casual.