Ferme des 4 Saisons

A converted farmhouse sitting practically in the shadow of the Trappist abbey that brews Chimay, which tells you something about the neighborhood. This is a country inn doing Modern French cooking with a generous, unfussy hand, the kind where a single animal arrives on the plate in three forms and nobody thinks that's excessive. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand, and the prices stay sensible even when the ingredients don't.

One honor, in evidence: