Flaveurs - Domaine Mont-Riant

A handsome old white mansion on the Jurançon hillsides, with slate roof and wooded grounds and windows that look straight down to Pau, is now a modern French restaurant run by a Basque chef and his Béarn wife. The interior has been quietly revamped without losing any of the bourgeois bones, and the cooking moves comfortably between regional tradition and something a little more contemporary, grounded in sustainable fishing and local producers.

One honor, in evidence: