Fleur de Sel

A self-taught couple runs this quiet French restaurant just steps from the Belgian-French border, and the dynamic between them is half the point: he obsesses over wine pairings and the balance of acid, heat, and spice; she plates with a light hand and refuses to be stingy about it. The room is minimalist, the cooking is not, and the whole thing has the relaxed confidence of people who learned by doing rather than by credential.