Fornata

The wood-fired oven sits in plain view, warming a room that splits the difference between a casual neighborhood pizzeria and something a bit more considered. Long-ferment dough is the house commitment here, producing a light, airy base under toppings that lean into Italian tradition without ignoring where they actually are. Cortázar grew up nearby, which has nothing to do with the pizza but is a good excuse to make an afternoon of it.