Gaudium

A glass-fronted wine cellar and an open kitchen visible from the dining room set the tone at this modern French restaurant tucked inside a medieval village. The chef leans on seasonal Catalan ingredients while keeping one eye firmly on French technique, with set menus running from a compact weekday lunch to an eight-course tasting. The room is polished without being stiff, the kind of place that makes a detour through Altafulla feel like a reasonable decision.

One honor, in evidence: