Glaz

Named for the Breton word that holds all the greens, blues, and greys of the sea at once, this bistro on the village square mixes wrought iron and earthenware with copper and plants. The chef, born in Saint-Malo to an Italian mother and Lebanese father, runs French culinary tradition through that layered heritage, landing somewhere precise and quietly surprising. The kitchen earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand, and the wine side is handled with equal attention.