Goat On The Roof

A converted bank in Newbury, still wearing its bones lightly, now serves sharing plates rooted in British produce with a few well-traveled ideas stirred in. The room is bright and unfussy, and the counter is the seat to take if you want to talk through the tight, thoughtful wine list with someone who actually cares. It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, and the cooking earns the attention without making a fuss about it.

One honor, in evidence: