GÓRÉ

The name means a cereal-drying barn, and the building was exactly that before someone gave it very good bones and floor-to-ceiling windows. It's a modern Hungarian restaurant in a sleepy Baranya village, with a raised dining room under exposed beams and a covered terrace for good weather. The kitchen leans on classical technique but uses fermentation in ways that keep things from feeling safe. Guest rooms mean you don't have to think about the drive home.