GÖRG

Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the Schneeberg on a clear day, and in summer the whole wall opens up so the view just joins the room. This is a seasonal Austrian restaurant in the countryside outside Vienna, run by two brothers who split time at the stove and cook traditional dishes with a quietly modern hand. The menu comes as a set or à la carte, and the Kaiserschmarren parfait with plum compote is the kind of dessert that quietly derails your plans to leave.

One honor, in evidence: