Grow Restaurant

The quail comes with its own broth and a brioche, which tells you where the chef's head is: old Lombardy, hunting and foraging, ancestral Brianza flavors rebuilt with modern technique. This Michelin-starred tasting-menu restaurant outside Milan runs three evening menus, and you pick at booking to keep waste down. Lunch is lighter and cheaper, and there's a shared table for eight where you sit with whoever shows up.

One honor, in evidence: