Gründler's Gourmet Stüberl

A father-and-son kitchen running five to seven courses of contemporary French cooking with a strong lean toward Alpine ingredients, tucked into a hotel in the Austrian mountains. One Michelin star. The room is intimate and upscale without feeling stiff, and the waitstaff, occasionally including one of the chefs, know exactly what they're doing. The wine list covers Austrian labels alongside international ones, and the whole place runs with the kind of quiet family warmth that's hard to manufacture.

One honor, in evidence: