Guy Lassausaie

A Michelin-starred country restaurant outside Lyon where the kitchen has been in the same family for generations, the dining room now dressed in cool grey and black. The chef holds a Meilleur Ouvrier de France title and cooks modern French food that stays loyal to regional tradition while nudging it sideways now and then. Hay-roasted pigeon in a sealed cocotte is the kind of thing that makes the drive from the city feel reasonable.

One honor, in evidence: