Herberg de Kop van 't Land

On the edge of National Park De Biesbosch, this inn serves a seasonal surprise menu that skips meat and fish entirely, letting things like tomato tartare and mushroom bisque carry the evening. Organic wines, a few rooms upstairs, and the kind of quiet that reminds you how loud cities are. The crowd tends toward people who planned the drive and have nowhere to be the next morning.

One honor, in evidence: