HIO

Guests start outside, snacking by the charcoal grill while the team explains where everything came from, which turns out to be mostly the garden a few feet away. Inside, sixteen seats around an open kitchen give the whole thing the feel of a dinner party someone actually planned. The six-course vegetable-led menu changes with the season, and the graffiti on the wall translates, roughly, to "the field cooks."

One honor, in evidence: