Hostellerie de la Pointe Saint-Mathieu

Old stones and a huge fireplace anchor the dining room of this Michelin-starred hotel restaurant at the tip of Brittany, where the headland of Saint-Mathieu sits just across the way. The chef built her cooking around what comes in locally, langoustines from Guilvinec, scallops from Brest harbour, fish from Le Conquet, and the result is modern and precise without losing the place's sense of where it actually is.

One honor, in evidence: