Hotel Waldhaus Sils

The original key racks are still in use, and the staircase still creaks, which tells you everything about how this grand hotel above Sils Maria thinks about progress. Five generations of the same family have kept it stately without turning it into a museum, and 140 rooms, a forest-fringed spa, and views across glassy lakes and snowy peaks make the case that not every Swiss hotel needs to be in St. Moritz.