Il Rivale in Città

A handful of small dining rooms inside an 18th-century palazzo, each one dressed differently in its own fabrics and colors, give this contemporary Italian restaurant the feel of a very grand private home. The menu leans rich and considered, and a wooden dessert trolley making its rounds at the end of a meal is a genuinely old-fashioned touch. The wine list skews toward nearby Franciacorta, browsed on a tablet, which is the one concession to the current century.

One honor, in evidence: