Il Sottomarino

A seafront terrace with panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian has made this family-run seafood restaurant a seasonal booking scramble for years. The menu leans classic Mediterranean, fish-forward and unfussy, but the desserts take a detour: dark chocolate cannoli, served upright, filled with gianduja semifreddo and finished with a Moscato d'Asti zabaglione. The Michelin Guide gave it a Bib Gourmand, which tracks with the crowd's general mood of pleased-with-themselves regulars.