Il Tiglio

The Sibillini mountains take some getting to, and Il Tiglio is another half-hour past anywhere you'd call convenient. It's a contemporary restaurant where chef Enrico Mazzaroni draws almost entirely from his own agriturismo for ingredients, trout and venison and mushrooms finding their way into dishes that are far more technically ambitious than the surroundings suggest. A Michelin star, earned in a place this remote, tells its own story.

One honor, in evidence: