Impero

The paniscia, a Novarese risotto with beans and salami, is reason enough to find this old-school trattoria in the small town of Sizzano. The Naggi sisters have run it forever, keeping the menu firmly Piedmontese: fresh homemade pasta, stuffed boiled chicken carved tableside from a trolley, an impressive cellar of local labels. A Michelin Bib Gourmand, and the kind of room where regulars never need to check what's in season.

One honor, in evidence: