Intuition

Upstairs from a brasserie, with the castle of Saint-Lô visible through the windows, this Michelin-starred dining room is where a chef who grew up in the area forages wild herbs, grows his own vegetables, and lets Normandy do most of the talking. The cooking is inventive without being showy, and the brioche smoked over apple wood signals early that this is a kitchen with a point of view.

One honor, in evidence: