Inver

A former crofter's cottage and boat store on the shores of Loch Fyne, about as isolated as a restaurant gets without requiring a boat. The chef trained at Noma and it shows: the modern Scottish menu runs on foraged and hyperlocal ingredients, including mackerel pulled from the loch itself and tea grown up the road. Sheepskin armchairs in the bar, loch views from the dining room, and bothy-style rooms if you'd rather not drive back in the dark.

Two honors, in evidence: