Kaatje bij de Sluis

A canal-side fine dining restaurant in a postcard-pretty Dutch village, where a window table looks out over the lock and, if you're upstairs, a stork's nest across the street. The chef works local and organic produce into French-rooted dishes that occasionally take a sharp left turn into something more daring. Kaatje bij de Sluis holds a Michelin star, and the cheese and wine selection runs as deep as the kitchen does.

Two honors, in evidence: