Kanton Restaurant

Desserts arrive on a tray rather than a menu, which sets the tone for a Chinese restaurant that does things its own way. The kitchen keeps the menu short and fragrant, drawing on classic techniques without sprawling into the encyclopedic approach most spots lean on. A Michelin Bib Gourmand, earned in a business district that gives nothing away from the outside. The tea list alone is worth the detour from Milan.

One honor, in evidence: