Kasteel TerWorm

A fourteenth-century castle on a moat, with stone walls, medieval paintings, and a waterside terrace that makes it hard to focus on the menu. This is a French restaurant where the chef runs a modern kitchen inside all that old grandeur, folding koji and kombu into otherwise familiar dishes in ways that read as curiosity rather than novelty. Staying the night is an option, which feels entirely appropriate.

Two honors, in evidence: