Kifune Ugenta

A two-room ryokan in the mountain woods north of Kyoto, Ugenta keeps as many teahouses as guest rooms, one built by the current owner's grandfather for formal ceremony, one glass-walled in a cedar grove for casual mornings. In summer, meals happen on a deck hovering just above the river, the fish famously caught from the water below your table. In winter, hot pot and wild boar arrive in the privacy of your room. The Michelin Guide awarded it one Key.