Kokovin

A garden patio shaded and sociable anchors this French restaurant on the edge of Sint-Niklaas, where cooking swings comfortably between classical and contemporary. The room runs on genuine hospitality, with the front-of-house half of the family steering guests through a wine list she clearly knows well. The kitchen, manned by the other two, leans into comfort without apologizing for it: good sole, fat shrimp fritters, duckling with proper fries.

One honor, in evidence: