La Bandiera

The drive into the Abruzzo hills takes a while, and that's part of the deal at this Michelin-starred family restaurant in a village most GPS systems seem to resent. Two generations cook together in the kitchen, drawing almost everything from their own gardens and olive trees. The wine list, overseen by another family member, leans deep into by-the-glass options, which suits the kind of meal that keeps extending itself past any reasonable hour.

One honor, in evidence: