La Cebolla

The kitchen sits above a cinema, which already tells you something about the mood. This relaxed restaurant in Dordrecht pulls from local suppliers and then wanders freely toward the Mediterranean and beyond, the kind of menu where a whole turbotin gets the sweet-spicy treatment of Indonesian cooking and cheesecake arrives with Granny Smith sorbet. Small plates or full spreads, the chef's instinct is to take something familiar and quietly tilt it sideways.

Two honors, in evidence: