La Courtille

A converted silkworm farm built of white stone is an unusual home for a restaurant, but La Courtille makes it feel inevitable. The chef trained under Raquel Carena at Le Baratin in Paris, and that pedigree shows in the cooking, which is rooted in the regional produce of the Gard without making a fuss about it. Natural wines and local Tavel and Lirac labels anchor the list. In summer, an ancient cedar shades the terrace.