La Table de Manon

Lobster Wellington, wrapped in flaky pastry with a Choron sauce, sits on the menu of this Michelin-starred contemporary French restaurant tucked into the Belgian Ardennes, where the local specialty is game. The chef behind it grew up in Alsace, spent years on the Brittany coast, and has direct ties to the fishermen there, which shows in a room otherwise surrounded by landlocked forest. She holds the surf-and-turf territory with confidence.

One honor, in evidence: