La Table du Castellet

The patio looks out over Provençal hills toward the sea, and the cheese cellar alone inspires planning a visit. This is fine dining at its most serious: three Michelin stars, seafood and vegetables from the Mediterranean driven by a chef whose sauces hit like a low note you feel in your chest. The crowd dresses accordingly, and nobody rushes anyone. The circuit next door is a good conversation starter if the silence feels too complete.

One honor, in evidence: