La Villa

Perched slightly above the city, this Michelin-starred French restaurant carries its elegance without making a fuss about it, inside or on the plate. Classic French technique gets quietly steered toward the region, which shows up most clearly in the game dishes. The tasting menu called Le Pin is where the kitchen makes its case, though a vegetarian version is offered too. At lunch, things shift down to a simple two-or-three-course affair.

One honor, in evidence: