L'Ancora della Tortuga

One wall here is carved straight into the cliff face, which sets the tone. This seafood restaurant in Monterosso al Mare climbs above the village on the salita dei Cappuccini, and the upper terrace has the kind of Ligurian coastline view that makes you forget to order. The menu changes daily by blackboard or by whatever the server recites, leaning heavily on the sea but never ignoring the land. Book the terrace; the walk up is short.