L'Atelier du Nord

The kitchen sits dead center in the room, which tells you everything about what this place is. It's a modern, Japanese-influenced seafood restaurant inside Concarneau's old fish market, and the chef pulls his ingredients from essentially next door. The cooking leans on clean, well-tuned preparations rather than spectacle, and the chef tends to wander out and talk to people, which here reads as enthusiasm rather than performance.

One honor, in evidence: