L'Auberge Saint Jean

A Michelin-starred inn sitting right on the banks of the Dordogne, where the chef builds set menus around quietly inventive combinations and a wine list running to some 550 labels. The cooking is modern without being cold, and the service has the warm, attentive quality that comes from a couple who run the room themselves. Worth the detour into a small village if the river view doesn't already sell it.