Lavedán

A former stable in the Aragonese Pyrenees that now turns out contemporary regional cooking rooted in mountain tradition. The team runs a tight, rustic room and a menu that updates the Pyrenean larder without losing its footing in it. Wild boar, elderberry, and the flavors of the valley show up across à la carte and set-menu formats. A Michelin Bib Gourmand, and the kind of place the locals in the valley treat as a given.

One honor, in evidence: