Le Cèdre de Montcaud

Six or seven tables in a Virginia creeper courtyard is more of a manifesto than a seating plan. This Michelin-starred fine dining room inside Château de Montcaud turns out polished Mediterranean cooking, the kind where red mullet arrives bouillabaisse-style and the menu shifts with the season. It's a date-night place in the most unironic sense, intimate enough that you'll feel like the only table there, because almost no one else is.

One honor, in evidence: