Le Chamarlenc

An old-school institution in Puy-en-Velay, now in the hands of a young couple who came down from La Mirande in Avignon with something to prove. The cooking at this one-Michelin-star restaurant is precise and seasonal, pulling fish from the Mediterranean and produce from nearby farms, then turning it into dishes that feel imaginative without being showy. The room is quiet enough that you notice when something on the plate surprises you.