Le Comptoir de la Mère Germaine

A gleaming spit-roast oven anchors the counter of this bistro offshoot, tucked down a cul-de-sac in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The chef, Ecuadorian-born, runs a traditional French lineup that quietly drifts south American when he's not looking, so roast meats and seasonal family dishes share the menu with a tuna tiradito. The terrace looks out over the vineyards, which helps when the desserts arrive and you decide you're not leaving anytime soon.