Le Gastronome

An old-school country restaurant that held a Michelin star for decades before a younger team took over and brought it roaring back, earning the star again in the process. The kitchen leans on classical French technique and garden vegetables, with local game and lobster doing the heavy lifting. The cooking is composed and precise without feeling museum-like, which is harder to pull off than it sounds in a room this grand.

One honor, in evidence: