Le Haut-Allier

A family-run hotel-restaurant perched over the Gorges de l'Allier, with the old stone bridge and river right outside the window. The Brun family, a Michelin-starred operation, works in close formation: one in the kitchen, one on desserts, the parents holding everything together. The cooking leans on what the volcanic highlands actually produce, wild plants, Auvergne meats, local salmon, and mushrooms from the surrounding landscape rather than anything imported for effect.

One honor, in evidence: