Le Jas

A converted dry-stone sheepfold, or jas in Provençal, sitting just steps from the church that hosts one of the world's great piano festivals. The chef, who trained under some heavy Provençal names, runs a proper sit-down restaurant beneath centuries-old vaults or on a terrace in the open air. The cooking leans refined and rooted in the region, lamb from the Alpilles, crayfish, quenelles, the kind of menu that takes the countryside seriously.

One honor, in evidence: