Le M - Domaine de Rochebois

The terrace hangs over the Dordogne valley from a balcony off a 19th-century freestone manor, which is a strong opening move for any restaurant. Inside, herringbone floors, velvet seats, and white moulded walls split the difference between country-house and genuinely chic. The chef runs brasserie fare at lunch and fine dining after dark, with a travel habit that shows up in the occasional Asian note threading through otherwise French-leaning plates.

One honor, in evidence: