Le Métro

Saxophone references tucked into the decor hint at the owner's musical loyalties, but it's the kitchen that does the talking at this small Italian restaurant in La Louvière. The chef behind the stove draws on recipes from Italy and Sicily, turning out handmade pasta with the kind of ricotta filling and herb-butter sauce that suggests someone's grandmother is involved, even if she isn't. A neighborhood place with real conviction in what it cooks.

One honor, in evidence: