Le Moulin

North Sea sole pan-fried à la meunière, potato gratin with a golden crust, salmon smoked from an old family recipe: this is a classic French-Flemish restaurant that has no interest in gimmicks and shows no signs of reconsidering that position. Warm and cozy in the way that only old-school places manage without trying, it's the kind of room where the sauces are the point and the wine list is in safe hands.

One honor, in evidence: